A dark red ground under a border of antique gold, browner than the usual yellow.

Why this piece

Red taken dark — deep enough to read dignified rather than festive-bright, and steady between daylight and lamplight.
Antique gold, not yellow — the border metal runs darker and browner than the usual gold, which is what keeps it from shouting against the red.
Butta body — the field is worked all over in a repeating figure — the butta body design this weave is searched for by name.

The colourway

Dark red with an antique gold rather than a bright one is the more restrained version of the oldest pairing in this craft. The brown in the metal picks up the depth in the red instead of sitting on top of it.

How it is woven

Every piece is made end to end in Maheshwar, in the master-weaver households of Mominpura. A pit loom in Maheshwar, the weft going in by hand, and a dobby carrying the buti and the border. Nothing here is machine-woven. If you have been sent a powerloom piece before, this is the difference you can feel in the hand of the cloth.

Small irregularities in the weave come with the method — a slub, a slightly uneven pick. They are the fingerprint of a hand-inserted weft, not a fault in a finished piece.

The border, and how it wears

The border is a bugdi border: the woven border design reads the same on both faces. Turn the edge over at the fall and the figures come up the same way.

Weighed and published rather than described: 350 to 360 g at 44 to 46 GSM. The drape is soft from the first day and stays soft after cleaning, the pleats sit where you set them, and the semi-sheer body takes a petticoat underneath.

Specification

Total length: 6.3–6.5 m, including an 80–90 cm blouse piece
Width: 45–46 inches
Weight: 350–360 g, measured in-house
Fabric weight: 44–46 GSM
Body: semi-sheer; wear it with a petticoat
Drape: soft, holds its pleats, and stays soft after the first clean
Loom: pit loom, with the weft inserted by hand
Patterning: dobby-set, on body, border and pallu
Finishing: pallu kuchu, selvedge and edges finished; fall and pico on request
Woven in: Maheshwar, Khargone district, Madhya Pradesh
Country of origin: India
Net quantity: one saree with attached blouse piece
Care: Dry Clean Only

Care and storage

Professional dry clean only. Home washing is not recommended.
Air-dry in the shade, without wringing.
Iron inside out on a low-to-medium setting, under a cotton press cloth.
Store it wrapped in breathable cotton or muslin, in a cool dark cupboard.
Refold along fresh lines every three to six months.

Dispatch

This piece is held in stock rather than made to order, so hand weaving does not put you in a queue. About half of all orders leave the next day, most go within two to three days, and most orders inside India arrive in three to seven days.

A note on colour

This piece is a dark red, bordered in antique gold. Screens, camera settings and the light a photograph was taken in all move a shade a little, so the piece that reaches you may sit slightly away from the image on this page. Every colour in this range has been tested for fastness on wash and rub.

Product details

Country of origin: India. Net quantity: one saree with attached blouse piece. Care: Dry Clean Only.

Dark Red Pure Handloom Maheshwari Silk Saree, Antique Gold Border, Butta Body | Phulwari