Noor-e-Banaras Lichi Silk Blue Suit (T+B+D) Brocade Weaving

Does it come stitched?

No. The set comes as unstitched fabric in three pieces: a top, or kurta, piece of 2.5 to 3.0 metres, a bottom piece of 2.4 to 2.5 metres and a dupatta of 2.4 to 2.5 metres. That lets your tailor cut it to your measurements, with the neckline, sleeve and length you prefer.

The name just says blue. What shade should I expect?

Expect a cool blue set off by the zari. Screens vary, so the colour in hand may shift slightly from what you see here. If you're matching it to a particular shawl or jewellery, compare them in daylight once it's in hand. Silver suits the cool tone; gold ties in with the zari.

What's woven on the kurta?

Gold leaf-shaped butis are spread across the royal blue body, with a paisley band at the hem and a narrow gold border with tiny dot edging. The dupatta is woven in diagonal gold stripes, so the kurta and the dupatta carry the pattern between them.

Is the dupatta really striped?

Yes. The dupatta is woven in bold diagonal gold stripes across the base colour, with a narrow gold border along the edges. It makes a lively contrast with the kurta, which has gold leaf butis rather than stripes, and the diagonals create movement when it's draped.

Which kurta styles show off brocade well?

Straight, A-line and slightly flared kurtas with few seams show the most brocade. A high, round or boat neck keeps the front panel uninterrupted, and three-quarter or full sleeves frame it nicely. Heavy pleating or many panels chop up the woven pattern, so keep those for plainer fabrics.

Should I line the bottom as well?

For straight pants or a salwar in silk, a lining is a good idea, especially if you'll sit for long hours. It keeps the woven threads on the reverse away from your skin and helps the fabric last. Cotton works well; ask your tailor for a light lining so the bottom doesn't feel bulky.

Will a silk dupatta keep slipping off my shoulder?

Silk is smooth, so it can slide. Pin it at the shoulder from the inside with a small safety pin or a brooch, or fold it into pleats before pinning for more grip. At 2.4 to 2.5 metres it's long enough to go across both shoulders, which also helps it stay put.