Noor-e-Banaras Zari Brocade Orange Silk Suit (T+B+D)

How do I balance the orange and the zari?

Both are bright, so keep the accessories calm: ivory or nude footwear, small gold or pearl earrings and a plain clutch. Pin the dupatta on one shoulder for a neater look. Let the orange and the woven zari carry the outfit, and resist adding a bright potli on top.

Is it ready to wear, or will I need a tailor?

You'll need a tailor. The set is sold as unstitched fabric: a top piece, a bottom piece and a dupatta. Unstitched means you choose the fit and style, a straight kurta for a dinner or something with more flare, rather than adjusting a ready-made size that may not suit you.

What's the motif on the border?

Peacocks among florals, woven into a very wide gold panel, with touches of teal and pink in the weave. The rest of the bright base carries only sparse small gold butis, so the border holds most of the richness and becomes the focal point of the set.

Which colours from the border should guide my jewellery?

The border has touches of teal and pink among the gold, so stones in either of those shades tie the look together. Gold matches the zari and is the easy default. Earrings with a peacock or enamel motif suit the theme without needing a heavy necklace.

What style of bottom can I get from the bottom piece?

With 2.4 to 2.5 metres, most tailors can make straight pants, cigarette pants or a regular salwar for most sizes. A very full patiala or a wide palazzo may need more, so check with your tailor. Straight pants keep the look sleek for a dinner; a salwar feels more traditional.

Any tips I should pass on to my tailor?

Three things help with brocade. Overlock or bind the seams, because woven patterns can fray once cut. Plan the layout so motifs sit centred on the front and upright on the sleeves. And keep the design simple, with few darts and seams, so the woven pattern isn't broken up.

How should I store and iron it?

Store it folded in a muslin or cotton cloth, away from moisture and direct sunlight, and refold it now and then so creases don't set along the same lines. Iron on low heat with a pressing cloth on top. Keep perfume and deodorant away from the silk; spray them before you dress.